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Sunny Buchler

Comparing Silk and Wool Embroidery Threads

Comparing Silk and Wool Embroidery Threads

How does one choose which embroidery thread to use for a project? Sunny does it by trying every one she can find for her 12th century bliaut. Read on to find out what she thought.

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Analyzing the Construction of Three Victorian Evening Bodices by Sunny Buchler

Analyzing the Construction of Three Victorian Evening Bodices by Sunny Buchler

I've often been frustrated that there are wonderful Victorian patterns available (published in the period or drafted from extant dresses) but there is very little information on how to put the pieces together or on the other finishing details that go into making historical dress.

Here I'll address this gap by doing a photographic analysis of the construction techniques used in three Victorian evening bodices in my personal collection.

Due to the Single Pattern Project, I'm most interested in the elliptical style. Two of the bodices were either worn with elliptical skirts or with the early bustle style, the third was probably worn with the earlier circular hoop style.

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Analyzing the Construction of Three Victorian Skirts, by Sunny Buchler

Analyzing the Construction of Three Victorian Skirts, by Sunny Buchler

I've often been frustrated that there are wonderful Victorian patterns available, but there is very little information on how to put the pieces together or the other finishing details that go into making a dress.

My goal with this article is to address this gap by doing a photographic analysis of the construction techniques used in three Victorian skirts in my personal collection. Due to the Single Pattern Project, I'm most interested in elliptical skirts, but I only have one in my collection. Therefore, I've chosen a skirt from the preceding Hoop era, and one from the following Early Bustle era to compare to the elliptical skirt.

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Analyzing the Construction of Four Victorian Day Bodices by Sunny Buchler

Analyzing the Construction of Four Victorian Day Bodices by Sunny Buchler

While there are wonderful Victorian dress patterns available, either published in the period or drafted from extant dresses,  there is very little information around on how to put the pieces together in a historically accurate way or complete the other finishing details that go into making a dress of this style.

If you're going to go for accuracy with your Single Pattern Project, Sunny Buchler redresses the balance for you this month with her photographic analysis and comparison of the construction techniques used in four 1860s bodices in her personal collection.

Nine pages and over a hundred large and detailed clickable images in this article alone will give you every minute detail you could ever want to know about constructing your bodice!

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Mid-Victorian Underpinnings

Mid-Victorian Underpinnings

Sunny walks you through every single item that a mid-Victorian lady might have worn under her gown, with references to appropriate patterns from all sources.

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1876-8 Dress: Polonaise

1876-8 Dress: Polonaise

A wonderful example of fashionable US Victorian day dress, composed of polonaise and trained skirt. Part 2 features the complete pattern.

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Lingerie Dress c.1904: Waist

Lingerie Dress c.1904: Waist

Last month I analyzed the skirt of a lingerie dress. This month I'll be looking at the associated blouse. In the Belle Époque it goes by many names: waist, shirt-waist, lingerie waist, lingerie blouse...

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Lingerie Dress c.1904: Skirt

Lingerie Dress c.1904: Skirt

Analyzing, in exhaustive detail, the construction of a lingerie dress from about 1904. Sunny dives into the finer points of a beautiful surviving piece of pure frou-frou.

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1910-14 Velvet Evening Gown 4

1910-14 Velvet Evening Gown 4

Sunny finishes her deciphering of a black velvet Teens evening gown, with the bodice opening and velvet tabard.

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1910-14 Velvet Evening Gown 3

1910-14 Velvet Evening Gown 3

Sunny continues her examination and deciphering of a black velvet Teens evening gown, focusing on the bodice and sleeves.

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1910-14 Velvet Evening Gown 2

1910-14 Velvet Evening Gown 2

Sunny continues her examination of a black velvet evening gown with many of the characteristics of Teens high fashion.

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1910-14 Velvet Evening Gown 1

1910-14 Velvet Evening Gown 1

Sunny examines a very complicated early Teens black velvet evening gown with  many of the characteristics of high fashion in this era.

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1909-1914 Striped Day Dress, 2

1909-1914 Striped Day Dress, 2

Last month, Sunny covered how the lower half of the dress was patterned and constructed. This time, she examines the bodice.

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1909-1914 Striped Day Dress, 1

1909-1914 Striped Day Dress, 1

In our first Teens Double Period Project article, Sunny examines a fashionable striped wool dress from 1909 - 1914 in her collection.

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Transferring Embroidery Designs to Dark Fabric

Transferring Embroidery Designs to Dark Fabric

Transferring embroidery designs onto dark fabric can be difficult, but Sunny walks us through a time-tested method used by embroiderers for centuries.

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Forensic Costuming

Forensic Costuming

When making a costume, an extant garment is the ideal research source. Once you have one,  how do you analyze it?

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