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squarepicCartridge pleating is one of the best ways to fit a ton of fabric into a small space. Here's two tried and tested methods to accomplish it.

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emma
Interesting article, thank you. I'd be interested to know how the theatrical version you have here differs from the historical way.
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ladyjouster
I made a 1860's gown years ago using cartridge pleating. I did the hand method but cheated slightly by using gingham ribbon as a guide. It had the added advantage of providing a bit of extra support to the fabric when attaching to the waistband. It also made it a bit quicker to put together by not having to create a marking guide.

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