Pleating Image 8Completing our series on the world of fabric manipulation, Lisha walks us through techniques of shirring and puffing for a fabulous result.

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What's your reference for the shirred ruffle? I've been doing some research for a Costume College class I'd like to teach next year and ruffles like you are showing are rare from what I've seen to date. Would love a counter example of a single ruffle on the hem!

Also, a trick I've learned for puffing (thank you Elizabeth Stuart Clark!) is to run piping on the bias strip on either side and then pulling each cord to create the rouching. Then, like soutache, you can curve to your hearts delight! Yeah, wanted to kick myself given the effort I'd taken for the same yet not as good effect...

The shirred ruffle is from a portrait: “Madame de Sorquainville” by Jean-Baptiste Perronneau, 1749.

Thanks for the tip on using piping! It sounds similar to zigzagging over crochet thread. Are you supposed to remove the piping once the strip is gathered? Or does the piping become part of the design?

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