However as long as you keep one simple principle in mind, you can draft sleeves that fit easily. Marion McNealy shares with us her secrets of drafting stress free fitted sleeves that set into the armscye easily every time.
A key principle in sewing that you already know is that if two pieces of fabric are the same length, they will fit together smoothly. What you may not realize is that this applies to curves as well!
I'm going to teach you to draft a basic fitted sleeve that has the seam going up the back of the arm, not under the arm as most modern commercial patterns. It also has NO sleeve cap ease, so it will fit smoothly into the armscye without gathers or fuss. This sleeve is not designed with a button cuff, just a straight fitted sleeve that you can fit your hand through easily without buttons at the wrist.
If you want a tighter sleeve, you can decrease the ease added. The amount of ease for a tighter sleeve will vary depending on the material you make your sleeve out of and what you wear under it. A stretchy wool can be made with less ease than a tightly woven silk taffeta.
I recommend 3 in.(7.5 cm) as the ease around the Biceps and Elbow, and 2 in.(5 cm) around the hand for your first draft. As always when trying a new pattern, make a mockup before cutting into the good fabric!
To draft a sleeve using this method you'll need several measurements:
- Straight arm length
- Bent Arm Length - from Shoulder to Wrist along back of the arm with the arm bent at a 90 degree angle.
- Length from Shoulder to Elbow
- Biceps + 3 in.(7.5 cm) ease
- Elbow + 3 in.(7.5 cm) ease
- Hand – around knuckles + 2 in.(5 cm) ease
Measuring the Armscye
In order to create a smoothly fitting sleeve, we'll also need to measure the length of the armscye that the sleeve fitting into. You'll need your pattern pieces, string and some canned goods or pattern weights to hold the ends down.
- Start by taking your patterns, the front and the back.
- Lay them out flat, and fold back one of the seam allowance and match the two seam allowances together.
- Take a piece of string and lay it along the seam line of the two pattern pieces, from the side seam on the front, over the shoulder to the side seam on the back.
- Cut the string to the length of the seam.
- Put a mark on the string where it crosses the shoulder line.
The sleeve is now ready for seam allowances. Add them on ALL sides.
When you cut and sew the sleeve you will have a left sleeve and a right sleeve. Just remember that the seam goes up the back when you pin it to the armhole. I like to pin it in and then double check before sewing it. This saves having to rip it out when you make a mistake.
Here are pictures of a finished sleeve set into the armhole.