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1. Take one sleeve and its corresponding undersleeve. With both of them right-side-out, pin the undersleeve inside the sleeve at the top edge, with the right side of the undersleeve against the lining. Start by placing the edges of the oversleeve (the split) at the mid-point on the undersleeve that you marked earlier. This will ensure that your undersleeve seam is at the back, out of sight.

2. On reaching the point where the pleating begins on the oversleeve, pleat the undersleeve to match (or alternatively, gather this part) and continue pinning the two edges together. Baste.

3. Bind the top edge of the sleeve with another bias-cut strip of fashion fabric.
4. Join together the lower corners of the oversleeve with a few handstitches to hold them together and form the split sleeve. You may wish to put a few stitches in the top of the split too, for extra strength.


Attaching the sleeves to the bodice

1. Cut five 15mm (1/2") wide ribbons, each 1m (1yd+4") long. You will sew the middle of each one to the top edge of the sleeve, on the outside, to form the ties that bind the sleeve to the armscye edge. Hold the ribbon at right angles to the sleeve edge and sew across the width of the ribbon along the edge of the binding, where the binding meets the sleeve (you can do this neatly by machine.) Sewing them in this position allows the lip of the sleeve to sit just inside the armhole without gaping when the sleeves are attached.

2. Sew the first ribbon at the top of the split. Run your finger along the edge over the TOP of the sleeve (ie not under the arm), over the pleats and sew the second ribbon at the other end of the pleats. Sew the other three ribbons at regular intervals between these two.

3. If you wish, embroider "left" and "right" on the inside of the binding at the tops of the sleeves! This is easier than it sounds: just an L and R will do.


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