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Victorian & Edwardian

Case Study: The 1890s Long Jacket

SquarepicKelly takes us deep inside this Belle Epoque jacket - a lucky garage sale find - to explore the complex 'engineering' behind late Victorian tailoring.

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  Tell me you're going to take a pattern off of this lovely old lady for the next installment! What an incredibly beautiful jacket. Thank you for sharing.  
  Oh, and - could you measure the stripes? The width of the brown and the width of the grey? What's the interfacing like in the turn-back (stripe/velvet) collar? Could you draw us a diagram of the pleat stacking?

I am terribly excited about this coat.

Terrible, terrible excitement.
kelly Cercone  
  Both the brown and the grey stripes measure 1 3/4" across, the inner floral swirl is just under 1" in width.

The interfacing in the velvet/stripe collar seems to be horsehair as well since it has a similar hand to else wear on the garment, and it's a traditional interfacing. The main collar interfacing ends 1" bellow the roll line.

I have uploaded a diagram of the pleating here: http://anachronisminaction.tumblr.com/image/54885166040
  This is a stunning jacket, I adore it! I would love to have a go at making a version of it for modern wear someday. Thanks a lot for sharing! (And like Bookwyrm, I'd love to see a pattern of this!)  

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