Oh, and - could you measure the stripes? The width of the brown and the width of the grey? What's the interfacing like in the turn-back (stripe/velvet) collar? Could you draw us a diagram of the pleat stacking?
Both the brown and the grey stripes measure 1 3/4" across, the inner floral swirl is just under 1" in width.
The interfacing in the velvet/stripe collar seems to be horsehair as well since it has a similar hand to else wear on the garment, and it's a traditional interfacing. The main collar interfacing ends 1" bellow the roll line.
I have uploaded a diagram of the pleating here: http://anachronisminaction.tumblr.com/image/54885166040