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squarepicDiscover the secret foundations of those gorgeous couture gowns! Sil Devilly examines some original Dior underbodices.

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Red Dress
How, if at all, is the under bodice structure attached to the bodice of the red dress? It seems a mystery to me! I see that the bodice of the red dress is attached to the skirt with swing tacks.

When the underbodice ends an inch or more from the neckline of the bodice of a dress, such as in the red dress and the black taffeta, what is to stop the neckline from sagging down against the under bodice? Especially when there is a loose fit.

While I understand the purpose and structure of the underbodice, the method of joining to the dress itself has remained a puzzle for me. This article series was actually what made me join FR and YWU, to hopefully find answers to my questions!

Sil Devilly
To answer; How the dresses and underbodice are joined
Each underbodice as well as having a particular structural relationship to its dress, is also joined to the dress in an individual and appropriate way. The methods used to link the parts together seem to be unique to each style of dress and are often surprisingly uncomplicated.
The red dress, the waist of the skirt part of the red dress is machine sewn through the underbodice waist tape along the waistline.
The top of the centre front of the underbodice is hand sewn to the front neckline facing, the sewn area is quite short 3 inches (7cm to 8cm) and would be enough to hold the neckline in place, stopping the dress from moving around on the shoulders and not allow the neckline to gape when leaning forward.
The black wool dress, inner and outer garments are only attached in one area, like the red dress the centre front of the underbodice is hand sewn to the front neck facing of the dress. All the underbodices have hanging loops to reduce stress on the join between the garments.

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